As we head into summer, blonde services are in more demand than ever. But with a busy column and post-lockdown hair, it is easy to make simple mistakes. Salon owner and Matrix artist, Michelle Summers Davies, says making mistakes are all part of the process:
Every colourist can make a wrong diagnosis, or a tone does not come out as you thought. But do not panic. Stay calm and revaluate the mixture, the application, and the canvas you are working on. We are seeing more home colour than ever before; we are seeing bigger roots and faded colour. So do not beat yourself up, we all make mistakes, it is how to deal with it that makes you a great colourist.
Michelle looks at the four most common blonding mishaps and the simple ways to solve them:
1. Choosing the wrong hair colour tone resulting in too ashy or over toned, muddy results.
Solution: Using a clarifying shampoo to adjust the tone will help clean out the hair before adding some gold and warm tones to eliminate the ashy colour. By doing this, you will balance the tone and give the hair back its brightness.
2. Misinterpreting the level of your client’s hair.
Solution: Application, texture, and knowing the proper starting level of your client's hair are essential, especially when lifting to a lighter shade. Take your time and examine the strands, as this can be misleading when establishing the right level. If unsure, always go with the darker level when lightening, as this will have a stronger undertone for you to use the correct developer strength to counteract the underlying natural pigment.
3. Hair has become yellow and brassy when using the wrong shade or developer, causing banding with glow roots.
Solution: To eliminate yellow and brassy tones hair needs to be lightened to give a cleaner base. Toning with an ash, violet or pearl will help to neutralise the yellow/brassy glow. At this point, homecare is essential. Using a purple-based shampoo like Matrix Total Results Brass off Shampoo will help to keep any warmth at bay, keeping your blonde clean and bright.
4. Over-processing the hair resulting in dry, fragile and damage to the point of breakage.
Solution: Once the hair has come to this point, in-salon treatments and having the proper haircare is so important. Hair needs strength and conditioner buffered back into it. Knowing the suitable composition of the hair and analysing what it needs – such as protein or moisture – are two essential factors to consider. Be mindful of heat exposure letting hair dry naturally; avoid heated styling tools and only use once a week.